The search for sustainable leather alternative:
From petrochemicals to plant-based.

Aside from the ethical ramifications of animal-based products in general, it goes without saying that the leather industry in its majority has significant environmental and human impacts that need to be addressed, with pollution caused by the release of untreated leather industrial effluents having detrimental effects on soil systems, aquatic environments, and public health. Leather production also has significant impacts on worker health. Several studies have highlighted occupational exposure to harmful compounds, such as benzene-based dyes and formaldehyde, along with heavy metals has been reported, leading to oxidative stress, potential carcinogenic effects and other health risks.

Consumers are increasingly aware of the environmental and human health impacts at both ends of the supply chain, meaning demand is higher for cleaner and more sustainable leather products and plant-based leather alternatives across the fashion, footwear and automative interior manufacturing industries.

In recent years, plant-based leather alternatives have gained recognition as cleaner and more sustainable substitutes for traditional leather. Cactus, fruit skin, mycellium, coconut, hemp, vegetable oil, cork, and other organic materials have all emerged as key ingredients in viable leather alternatives, all with a lower carbon footprint compared with animal leather. Furthermore, unlike synthetic leather, plant-based leather alternatives can biodegrade naturally, reducing waste and pollution.

However, despite the advent of many "plant-based" leather alternatives, many still rely on binding agents derived from fossil fuels. While the use of synthetic binding agents in the production of leather alternatives offers several advantages, including consistent and reliable results, maintained shape and structure over time, and enhanced water resistance and color fastness, it is important to consider their environmental impact.

For now, very few 100% plant-based leather alternatives exist, with only one leather alternative known to contain zero petrochemicals. Aside from another emerging mycellium-based leather alternative, most other leather alternatives contain at least 10 to 30% synthetics.

As mentioned above, these synthetic additives are, for the time being, considered essential by most manufacturers to maintain the aesthetic qualities of leather alternatives and to ensure that they mimic genuine leather convincingly. However, with public opinion around fossil fuels shifting, this is likely to change in the coming years.

While more sustainable and truly fossil-fuel leather alternatives are still on the horizon, it is important to emphasise that the industry has slowly been transitioning away from 100% PU products. This has been made possible thanks to considerable advancements in research and technology in the leather alternatives sector.

Some believe the footprint of leather alternatives can be limited by innovation in materials sourcing. To this end, certain leather alternatives use bio-waste material as their main component. Grape leather and olive leather are two such leather alternatives gaining prominence, known for their zero-waste oriented manufacture process due to their utilization of industrial agriculture waste for production.

Olive and grape-based leather alternatives offer sustainable and innovative options for those looking for eco-friendly leather alternatives. Olive-based leather alternatives utilise wet olive pomace, which is a byproduct of the olive oil extraction process. This approach adds value to an otherwise problematic waste material. This leather alternative can be manufactured at varying textures and degrees of softness, making it an extremely versatile raw material.

In turn, grape-based leather alternatives utilise byproducts of the winemaking process, such as grape seeds. This reduces waste and environmental pollution, contributing to a more circular economy. Additionally, grape leather alternatives offer a unique look and feel, with the potential for natural variations in color and texture. Lastly, apple-based leather alternatives also repurpose bio-waste from the apple juice industry. It is important to note, however, that for the moment this leather alternative contains more synthetic agents than olive and grape leather alternatives and is not, therefore, biodegradable or recyclable.

Overall, plant-based leather alternatives offer a promising solution to reduce environmental impact. They provide a more sustainable and cruelty-free option for consumers who are seeking ethical and eco-friendly leather alternatives. However, while plant-based leather alternatives show promise, further research and development is still necessary to optimise production processes and ensure consistent quality and performance. Additionally, the cost of plant-based leather alternatives can be higher compared to traditional leather, which may limit their accessibility and adoption in the market. Still, by continuing to innovate and improve leather alternatives, the fashion, footwear and automative interior industries can move towards a more sustainable and fossil-free future while also addressing scalability, cost, and overall environmental performance.