ENVIRONMENT & LEGISLATION
How European fashion brands should prepare to adapt to the new EU sustainability legislation
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The EU aims to transform the clothing production industry by 2030
The EU is establishing a range of sustainable fashion regulations, aiming to transform the clothing production industry for a more circular future by 2030. The legislation is part of the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, emphasising durability, repairability, and recyclability, whilst striving to eliminate clothing production waste and pollution.
The legislation addresses all phases of the clothing production cycle from fibre to design, and manufacture to consumption. The objective is for all garments sold in the EU to achieve specified sustainable fashion attributes, and for clothing production operations to consider environmental and social impact. Fashion brands are expected to reconsider brand strategy and consumers are encouraged to buy more sustainable fashion. Brands are obliged to adhere to new legislation and adapt to government incentives, participating in the global shift towards sustainable fashion and creating a more responsible clothing production industry. The EU sustainable fashion regulations will benefit not only the environment but also enable brands to align with the evolving clothing production market and create a more innovative and competitive landscape for European and global fashion.
This article will summarise the new EU legislation and make suggestions for brands involved in clothing production to comply with the new sustainable fashion standards.
The legislation addresses all phases of the clothing production cycle from fibre to design, and manufacture to consumption. The objective is for all garments sold in the EU to achieve specified sustainable fashion attributes, and for clothing production operations to consider environmental and social impact. Fashion brands are expected to reconsider brand strategy and consumers are encouraged to buy more sustainable fashion. Brands are obliged to adhere to new legislation and adapt to government incentives, participating in the global shift towards sustainable fashion and creating a more responsible clothing production industry. The EU sustainable fashion regulations will benefit not only the environment but also enable brands to align with the evolving clothing production market and create a more innovative and competitive landscape for European and global fashion.
This article will summarise the new EU legislation and make suggestions for brands involved in clothing production to comply with the new sustainable fashion standards.
Why we need sustainable fashion
Clothing production accounts for 8-10% of global CO2 emissions and 20% of water pollution. It consumes a staggering 79 trillion litres of water annually, primarily in farming and textile processing. Clothing production rates have doubled since 2000, with 87% of garments ending up in landfills or incinerated, and only 1% being recycled4. Social and ethical issues are also apparent, including forced labour, exploitative working conditions and unfair trade practices in clothing production nations.
With emerging initiatives and regulations, as well as increased consumer demand for transparency and sustainable fashion alternatives, clothing production brands face increased pressure to make steps towards meaningful and credible change. The importance of sustainable fashion expertise is apparent for companies to succeed in marketing sustainable fashion and ethical clothing production, whilst avoiding greenwashing.
Since the conception of 'sustainable development' in the 70s, numerous methods for sustainable fashion design have evolved from a product-level to a systems-level approach. Strategies such as zero-waste clothing production, biodegradability, and local production aim to minimise environmental and social impact, while the recent discourse on sustainable fashion and circularity emphasises reusing waste to create closed cycles of clothing production and consumption.
With emerging initiatives and regulations, as well as increased consumer demand for transparency and sustainable fashion alternatives, clothing production brands face increased pressure to make steps towards meaningful and credible change. The importance of sustainable fashion expertise is apparent for companies to succeed in marketing sustainable fashion and ethical clothing production, whilst avoiding greenwashing.
Since the conception of 'sustainable development' in the 70s, numerous methods for sustainable fashion design have evolved from a product-level to a systems-level approach. Strategies such as zero-waste clothing production, biodegradability, and local production aim to minimise environmental and social impact, while the recent discourse on sustainable fashion and circularity emphasises reusing waste to create closed cycles of clothing production and consumption.
What is involved in the new legislation?
The new legislation for sustainable fashion in the EU consists of several drivers for a better clothing production industry.
Design Requirements. Sustainable fashion design requirements for clothing production aim to make garments last longer. This approach encourages extending garment lifecycles through durable design as well as repairability and recyclability. Minimum recycled content percentages will also be outlined for clothing production.
Reducing Waste. The EU is developing measures to place responsibility for textile disposal on producers even after a product is sold. This encourages clothing production to manufacture durable garments and supports recycling initiatives. Destruction and exportation of unsold garments and textile waste will also be prohibited.
Tackling Greenwashing. Combatting greenwashing by setting stricter guidelines for sustainable fashion claims, criteria and labelling will be enforced, as well as banning buzzwords such as 'green' and 'eco-friendly'. Digital product passports to trace clothing production supply chains will be developed to inform consumers.
Microplastics. Microplastics have been a major source of concern over recent years. Much of the microplastic pollution found in the ocean is released in clothing production or laundry of synthetic textiles. The EU is funding research on microplastics and their risks, as well as developing ways to address the issue.
Human Rights. New rules on Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence have been proposed for more responsible corporate behaviour for sustainable fashion. Companies will be required to address negative clothing production impacts in line with human rights and labour standards.
Design Requirements. Sustainable fashion design requirements for clothing production aim to make garments last longer. This approach encourages extending garment lifecycles through durable design as well as repairability and recyclability. Minimum recycled content percentages will also be outlined for clothing production.
Reducing Waste. The EU is developing measures to place responsibility for textile disposal on producers even after a product is sold. This encourages clothing production to manufacture durable garments and supports recycling initiatives. Destruction and exportation of unsold garments and textile waste will also be prohibited.
Tackling Greenwashing. Combatting greenwashing by setting stricter guidelines for sustainable fashion claims, criteria and labelling will be enforced, as well as banning buzzwords such as 'green' and 'eco-friendly'. Digital product passports to trace clothing production supply chains will be developed to inform consumers.
Microplastics. Microplastics have been a major source of concern over recent years. Much of the microplastic pollution found in the ocean is released in clothing production or laundry of synthetic textiles. The EU is funding research on microplastics and their risks, as well as developing ways to address the issue.
Human Rights. New rules on Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence have been proposed for more responsible corporate behaviour for sustainable fashion. Companies will be required to address negative clothing production impacts in line with human rights and labour standards.
What are the consequences for brands that don't comply?
The new legislation for clothing production may sound drastic. However, brands are legally obliged to comply or risk penalties, fines and bans if they continue to ignore the latest regulations. Furthermore, non-compliance would not be in their best interest, as it may damage their reputation by losing trust from an increasingly environmentally conscious market. As Europe continues to make radical steps towards sustainable fashion, clothing production may encounter supply chain disruptions and face difficulty procuring investment if they do not adapt.
Fashion and clothing production brands looking to comply will need to adapt to the new industry standards in the shift towards circularity and sustainable fashion. Businesses must reconsider their brand strategy, supply chain and clothing production practices.
Design Knowledge. Typically, fashion designers are mostly concerned with shapes, fabrics and colours. However, for sustainable fashion, designers will be expected to have extensive knowledge of sustainable fabrics, durable construction techniques and ethical clothing production practices.
Fabric Sourcing. Textiles are an important consideration for sustainable fashion products. There are numerous options such as organic fabrics, recycled materials and recyclable or biodegradable fibres. Sourcing the correct materials will be crucial for clothing production companies to succeed.
Rethinking Supply Chain. Clothing production cycles must be analysed and scrutinised to uncover potential opportunities for change, whether that is manufacturing in a different location or at a smaller scale, or adopting new techniques or sustainable fashion initiatives.
Invest in Reuse and Repair. Facilitating reuse and repair is valuable to enable and encourage consumers to adopt better behaviours for sustainable fashion.
Transparency. Brands must become deeply aware and knowledgeable regarding the impact of their clothing production supply chains to provide clear information to consumers, confirming the source of their materials and the intricacies of manufacturing systems.
Openness To Learn. The shift towards sustainable fashion will not be easy; many brands will encounter difficulty in changing existing systems and mindsets. However, viewing the new regulations as an opportunity to learn and improve will encourage important innovation in the clothing production industry.
The new EU sustainable fashion legislation will benefit not only the environment and wider social systems, but also provide an opportunity for fashion brands to align with the evolving fashion and clothing production market. Adopting more sustainable fashion practices will improve brand reputation and working within new parameters will also encourage more efficient clothing production methods.
Fashion and clothing production brands looking to comply will need to adapt to the new industry standards in the shift towards circularity and sustainable fashion. Businesses must reconsider their brand strategy, supply chain and clothing production practices.
Design Knowledge. Typically, fashion designers are mostly concerned with shapes, fabrics and colours. However, for sustainable fashion, designers will be expected to have extensive knowledge of sustainable fabrics, durable construction techniques and ethical clothing production practices.
Fabric Sourcing. Textiles are an important consideration for sustainable fashion products. There are numerous options such as organic fabrics, recycled materials and recyclable or biodegradable fibres. Sourcing the correct materials will be crucial for clothing production companies to succeed.
Rethinking Supply Chain. Clothing production cycles must be analysed and scrutinised to uncover potential opportunities for change, whether that is manufacturing in a different location or at a smaller scale, or adopting new techniques or sustainable fashion initiatives.
Invest in Reuse and Repair. Facilitating reuse and repair is valuable to enable and encourage consumers to adopt better behaviours for sustainable fashion.
Transparency. Brands must become deeply aware and knowledgeable regarding the impact of their clothing production supply chains to provide clear information to consumers, confirming the source of their materials and the intricacies of manufacturing systems.
Openness To Learn. The shift towards sustainable fashion will not be easy; many brands will encounter difficulty in changing existing systems and mindsets. However, viewing the new regulations as an opportunity to learn and improve will encourage important innovation in the clothing production industry.
The new EU sustainable fashion legislation will benefit not only the environment and wider social systems, but also provide an opportunity for fashion brands to align with the evolving fashion and clothing production market. Adopting more sustainable fashion practices will improve brand reputation and working within new parameters will also encourage more efficient clothing production methods.
The future of EU and global fashion
The fashion and clothing production industry, as it stands today, is undeniably unsustainable; responsible for countless environmental and social impacts. Through the new legislation, targeting a variety of issues in the clothing production industry, Europe is equipped to become a global leader in sustainable fashion. The growing consumer demand for more sustainable clothing production practices mean that brands must adapt to make meaningful change towards circularity and transparency. Through embracing new design requirements, rethinking clothing production techniques and knowledge of sustainable fashion, EU fashion brands can become forward thinkers in sustainable fashion.
The new legislation could also impact other countries, setting precedent for global markets. Many prominent fashion brands who conduct business within the EU will be forced to adopt sustainable fashion practices for their own clothing production. By pushing for transparency, durability, and responsible sourcing, the EU is influencing a shift towards more sustainable fashion, ultimately impacting clothing production and consumption worldwide.
The new legislation could also impact other countries, setting precedent for global markets. Many prominent fashion brands who conduct business within the EU will be forced to adopt sustainable fashion practices for their own clothing production. By pushing for transparency, durability, and responsible sourcing, the EU is influencing a shift towards more sustainable fashion, ultimately impacting clothing production and consumption worldwide.
- Niinimäki, K. et al. (2020) 'The environmental price of fast fashion', Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1(4), pp. 189–200.
- Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2022) Circular Design for Fashion. Oxford: Ellen MacArthur Foundation Publishing.
- Rinaldi, F. and Testa, S. (2015) The Responsible Fashion Company. London: Routledge.
- Business of Fashion (2022) 'The State of Fashion 2023'.
- Payne, A. (2021) Designing Fashion's Future: Present Practice and Tactics for Sustainable Change. London: Bloomsbury.
- Dan, C. and Østergaard, T. (2020) 'Circular Fashion: The New Roles of Designers in Organizations Transitioning to a Circular Economy', The Design Journal, 24(6), pp.1001-1021.
- Goldsworthy, K. et al. (2018) 'Circular Speeds: A Review of Fast & Slow Sustainable Design Approaches for Fashion & Textile Applications', Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, 6(1), pp. 42-65.
Ready to keep up with all the requirements?
Opportunities abound for companies that embrace this sustainable transformation, leading to not only an enhanced reputation but also increased resilience in an ever-changing market. Wonder Industries has already gathered European sustainable wholesale suppliers and factories in one convenient location.